A dream of many years....and I wasn't disappointed. Although it wasn't as I expected and in many ways that was good - only a few of the islands are touristy and that is a great part of the charm of them...The wildlife doesn't disappoint but the camera sometimes doesn't do it justice....
OK - This is the Galapagos - there are a myriad of islands but many are easy to get to and others more difficult and others rarely visited. I started in San Cristobal - the island on the east (much larger than I expected) and had 4 days there - easy to do as it isn't too touristy and there are plenty of things to see - heaps of Sea Lions (Lobos) lolling about everywhere - on benches, in boats, on the shore, in the shade of trees on the Malecon etc, Giant turtles and Tortoises, Marine Iguanas, Frigate birds (some males with the large red mating display under their chins (or maybe it is their chins), petrels, pajaro tropicals with the long wavy tails, ,many canaries and more....You can swim with the sea lions and turtles and so many colourful fish in La Loberia that it is like an swimming in an aquarium...so beautiful - but best at low tide.
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Standing on Charles Darwin's toes (or between his legs). After visiting here he wrote his theory of Natural Selection |
Sea Lions on the Beach in San Cristobal
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and on the stairs... |
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Blue Footed Boobie - everywhere there are T-shirts with "I love Boobies" on them - so funny and the feet look painted.
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This is KickerRock or Lion Dormido (Sleeping Lion) - here we snorkelled and saw sharks and manta rays below us....fantastic and heaps of tropical fish on the side of the rock face which descended miles below.
I was looking at doing a cruise but then spoke to different people who said it was easy to organise last minute cruises....or do it yourself for less. That is true and not so true.....cruises can go to islands that the average boats from the islands don't go to eg Espanola but doing it yourself allows you more time to explore each island in more detail....so there's good and bad in both. Also if you are on a smaller ship with say 16 passengers (which I would have preferred) then the boat is more prone to rocking than a larger ship with say 99 passengers....it is a matter of what's important to you.
So...I decided to do it myself armed with the knowledge that fellow travellers had given to me and I met friends along the way who I could do it with as well.
From San Cristobal I took the ferry to Santa Cruz staying at Hostal Gardiner (not bad) with a roodtop terrace $15 per night...from here visited Tortuga Bay and Playa Brava (a must - heaps of marine iguanas and just a beautiful white sandy beach) then we took a boat taxi to Las Grieatas - quite a walk but well worth it - it is a water 'fault' with 2 volcanic cliffs with an open space of the clearest water - beautiful to snorkel in - well worth the walk....The next day a taxi ride across a bit of the island to Rancho Primicias - a privately run place with giant tortoises in the wild and near there a Lava Tunnel that goes 400m underground - so interesting to see...
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Playa Brava at Tortuga Bay |
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A handsome Marine Iguana |
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Blue Footed Boobie |
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They do look like they have just painted them |
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Las Grietas |
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Only tree-growing cactus in the world |
Then to Isabella....the largest of the islands of the group .... less visited but so lovely because of it's lack of tourism.....streets are sandy rather than paved and the Church newly being built has animals of coloured glass as the windows rather than saintly pictures and a statue of St Francis of Assisi - famous for his love of animals....so lovely...with its volcanoes - the one we went to had an eruption in 2005 with 100 buses a day visiting - when I saw the film footage here, I could understand why - amazing to see.
Also Flamingoes, heaps of marine iguanas and turtles and birds and the most colourful crabs.
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This the hand washing system - so efficient - water in the middle and an even cement surface for really easy scrubbing with a brush - think I will put one in myself at my next place. |
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