Two yrs ago I walked the Camino de Santiago from Sarria to Santiago (118 kms) a great walk – so peaceful especially as I was walking alone (when I chose, as there are always people to talk to if you wish) so from 17 to 25 September I joined a group of mates from Action Outdoors (a Perth based activity group who just love walking and cycling and kayaking) and we did the 1st week from St Jean Pied-de-Port to Logrono (164kms).
To get to St Jean PdP, I started in Bayonne and stayed with a lovely lady, Veronique Miramon (T:33 687 304 515) who allows you to stay for 23 euros for bed, dinner and breakfast and any information you need. She’s not far from the Catherdral so it’s a great spot to rest your weary bones before the walk…and only a 15min walk from the station over the 2 bridges.
Next morning caught the train from Bayonne to St Jean Pied-de-Port – about 1.5 hrs along the most beautiful, scenic countryside most of the time beside a stream – places you would never see by road. A short walk from the train station into the old town and up hill to the Camino office where you buy your credential (booklet that you have stamped) for 2 euros. I stayed at the Auberge du Pelerin - a clean hostel with a fantastic cook - beautiful salad for entree, quail in a fruity sauce for main meal, coffee brulee dessert..YUM!
St Jean Pied de Port is made up of an old and a new town and the old town is lovely – with the Citadel and the old wall or rampants which you could walk around – a day there is enough. We had 2 days and sadly when we left there for Roncavalles with an overnight stay at Orisson it was rainy and wet – so although we saw the Pyrenees in a lovely way with the mist and some glances of mountains as well as low heat, we probably didn’t see it at its best….but we had fun…
The walk to Orasson is only about 7.5kms but uphill a fair part of the way but in the wet we were glad to reach there knowing we were going to have a break. The hostel has limited capacity and originally I was in a tent outside but later they said I could have a dormitory bunk – luckily, as one of the people we spoke to who slept in the tent had bed bugs! Everyone at the evening meal together and there was a real sense of camaraderie and you could very easily meet the fellow travelers.
Next day Roncavalles or Roncaveaux in French was a welcome sight – not a huge town but a 200 bed new auberge with cubicles of 4 (mixed) but NO BLANKETS….. everywhere else provides at least a blanket….there is a beautiful Hotel there – the Hotel Roncevalles – beautiful décor and not too expensive….the bar in town is open early for coffee/breakfast before starting the 890km walk to Santiago…
There is a great book written by Paul Brierley called "The Pilgrims Guide to the Camino de Santiago" which describes the whole trail and its ups and downs and what to see and where to stop so I highly recommend buying that. Most use it as a reference guide.
That day we walked Roncavalles to Zubiri – 27 kms - each day was about 20 – 29 kms or part thereof – a good amount as you can get very bad shin splints or knees if you push yourself unless you are incredibly fit…
The following days were Zubiri to Pamplona where I stayed in the local square with friends but at some ungodly hour in the morning the glass collecting truck comes around and picks up all the recycling bins so you are woken with that clattering noise…
Next day Pamplona (great Tapas bars) to Puenta la Reina about 19kms then the following day Estella 21.9 kms.
After you leave Estella, Iracheis an obligatory stop for pilgrims can stop at where the local bodega offers pilgrims red wine on tap to aid them on their way to Los Argos about 23kms. The following day, the longest day of 29kms. led me to Logrono - the end of my journey.
By this time most shins (including mine) are aching, feet sore and some had blister and bunion pain…ready for a rest that’s for sure…
In Logrono we stayed at the Hostel in the Plaza Santiago with about 30 others on small mattresses on the floor but they are kind and the atmosphere is good. Lodging and food is donation only.
Now Istanbul - a fascinating place -Far bigger than I ever imagined - stayed before the tour at a Hostel found on Hostelbookers called Sultan Hostel - in the Sultanahmet area - so close to everything...for 40 Euros a night for a private room and 12 Euros for a 6 bunk dorm... Visited beautiful mosques, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace which amazed me as it houses relics of: Now get this.....The Rod of Moses (really), Turban of Abraham and Abraham's saucepan (I kid you not), the footprint in clay of the Prophet Mohammed from 7th Century and parts of the beard of Mohamed (how they authenticate these I will never know!!)
Took a On the Go Tour Turkey Unplugged for 10days from Istanbul to Gallipoli, (so sad), Troy interesting and model of the Trojan horse recreated, Pergamum, Ruins of Ephasus, Pamukkale with CaCo3 thermal pools - looks like snow, then Cappadocia a fascinating place where the 2nd Star Wars movie was filmed, with phallic like fairy chimneys and I was fortunate to have a hot air balloon ride - so peaceful and AMAZING......returned via the capital Ankara to Istanbul....Such a great trip - I would love to come back - their crafts are just beautiful and I could have just gone crazy if I was returning to Australia soon...but I'm not, shame - have to return....another day....
